I wrote this first one in November, but I don't think I ever got around to posting it.

November 17

As I approach my second Thanksgiving in Africa I have had the opportunity to reflect on and give thanks to my experience as a chemistry teacher in Mozambique. Although I have had a wonderful time so far, I have come to the conclusion that one of the things I am most thankful for is the fact that I do not have to do this job for the rest of my life. The following paragraphs should help explain why.

The complicated, corrupt and time-consuming process of recording grades occupied the two weeks following the end of classes. David, myself and two other teachers were responsible for the grades of about 650 ninth graders. Even after applying it I still do not fully understand the process that determines who passes to tenth grade and who stays in ninth. However, I can tell you that it simultaneously (and miraculously) leaves room for corruption while still implementing a complex system of checks and balances. I think my favorite example of corruption was when I watched a colleague successfully pressure his fellow teachers into changing the failing grades of his wife (for no other reason than that she was his wife… and yes, his wife is in ninth grade). The list (of corrupt/ bad practices in Mozambican schools) goes on and on, it is all very frustrating and it paints a bleak picture for the future.

After grade processing came the tenth and twelfth grade national exams, which I helped proctor and grade. An overwhelming majority of students were trying to cheat on the national exam and, for me, proctoring was like a high stakes competition in which a good performance by me would prevent an undeserving, cheating student from making it to grade eleven (assuming corruption does not give him a passing grade further down the line). To make it even better, Mozambican students also saw exams as a contest and they generally did not hesitate to complement my roommate or myself on our proctoring skills (which, in both of our cases, are prodigious). It was not unusual to hear: Teacha’, controlou bem in a complementary tone. Which simply meant that I proctored effectively. After exams came the grading of exams. I would rather not go into too much detail regarding the grading process, but I can tell you that not a single student (out of almost 700) passed the national chemistry exam. I have a suspicion, however, that when I come back to school next January quite a few of those students will have moved on to the 11th grade.

I think that is enough about school, I would much rather write about the fun and interesting things I have been doing (though there have not been many recently). The highlight of my last month or so was an early November trip to a nearby lake (Lago Chicamba). The lake was full of crocodiles (apparently the lodge where I was staying occasionally has croc on the menu), but a Zimbabwean guy informed us that crocs do not eat white people – so it was safe to swim (for me anyway). The lodge catered mostly to Zimbabwean fishermen and it was a nice place to get away for the weekend.

I am currently prepping for about a month and a half of traveling through East and Southern Africa (Tanzania, Zambia, Botswana, and South Africa are all on the menu along with Mozambique of course). Assuming all goes, well I will see my lovely family (on the African Continent) for the first time in almost 15 months beginning in late December. In the meantime, however, I want to wish everyone a very happy holiday season.

January 10

Happy 2010! I have recently returned to my home in Mozambique after quite a lot of traveling. The following are some highlights; English teachers should note my use (or over-use) of the present continuous tense.

Eating a Thanksgiving meal (on the beach) of grilled fish and coconut rice in the very isolated Northern Mozambican village of Pangane.

Exploring the dilapidated Portuguese-era mansions on the island of Ibo in Northern Mozambique.

Avoiding the lurking hippos while crossing the Mozambique-Tanzania border via dugout canoe (the only way to cross).

Swimming in the crystal clear waters around Mtwara in Southeastern Tanzania

Walking through the unreal (and extremely old – some date back to the 12th century) Swahili Ruins at Kilwa Kisiwani in Southeast Tanzania.

Browsing the food stalls and spice markets in Stone Town, Zanzibar.

Feeling like I was in the middle of a Corona commercial on the unbelievably idyllic beaches of Zanzibar.

Bunking in a compartment with five Zambians on a 50-hour train ride from Dar es Salaam, Tanzania to Kapiri Mposhi Zambia.

Watching the Zambeze River spill 100 meters over Victoria Falls in Livingstone, Zambia.

Seeing my family in the Johannesburg airport for the first time in 15 months.

Enjoying very cosmopolitan Cape Town, South Africa on my parents’ dime.

Being close enough to touch Lions, Leopards and Elephants on Safari in Kruger National Park, South Africa.

Taking the family on a tour through my village in Gondola, Mozambique.

It was a very satisfying vacation for all kinds of reasons. I would love to share my photos, but my camera broke the day after I left Gondola – so I do not have any. For the time being it is nice and relaxing to be back at home in Mozambique. Things should really start to heat up when school starts again in about two weeks.